The crate Hemi eyeing up it's soon to be accommodation.
The Hemi Conversion
If you're reading this, then you might be a purist who will look at this conversion and think: "Why?" and I can definitely understand that. She was a 100% #'s matching, show condition vehicle prior to this conversion, so why would anyone do this to a vehicle like that? Speed. I have and will always, build my cars for me. I have never cared about resale value or what others think and besides, this has actually increased the value, the insurance company agrees!
Having had her in stock form for over 8 years and after driving "The Batram" (V10 505ci 500hp Viper machine), opening up the 440ci just didn't do it for me anymore. While it was fun to drive her like that, it was missing that power on tap that The Batram gave me. I always had a massive grin while driving the Batram and upon parking it in the garage from the rush of the power and the aggressive nature... that's what I wanted from Lucy, again.
I must admit, when I started to undo the first few bolts in the engine bay, I did think to myself; "such a shame doing this to such an immaculate engine bay" but I knew the outcome would be well worth it. The 440s 375hp, heavy big block RB weight, "crammed" looking A/C engine bay and boring cam got to me. It was nice and fun while it lasted but not fast enough for me and it was time to spice her up!!
I have the #'s matching 440ci in my climate controlled workshop and would NEVER sell it (or trans). Not for me or for anyone else's sake but for LUCY's sake; that's her soul. I've seen it before where one of the previous owners of a #'s matching car sells the #'s block for bugger all, not knowing what he's doing to the poor car and regretting it later on. Once it's gone, it's gone. I sure as hell don't want to be "that guy" hahaha!
The car will be able to be returned back to stock IF wanted but lets be real here, that will NEVER happen! Going from the 700hp Hemi to the stock 440ci would be like going from a V10 to a bicycle. This conversion finally gave her the Vanishing Point style grunt her exterior image has always had. Looks AND power = win, win!! To be fair to any 440 owners, they can produce HEAPS of power and will haul ass, no doubt about it, just mine was built to be stock with a very mild and lazy cam. For most normal people, 375hp is ample for cruiser. I did contemplate building the 440 up to around 550hp but I didn't want to risk damaging the #'s block plus it'd still be heavy up front. With the 660hp+ Hemi just sitting there, it made perfect sense.
With 2 'Cuda projects falling through, the 540 Hemi had no home and had always sat in the garage in front of Lucy. Working on The Batram in the garage listening to some AC/DC, having a swig of a beer it hit me.....there was the Hemi, there was Lucy. The juices started flowing and it was almost like Lucy had spoken to me saying: "What else do you want me to do to get you to click you dumb bastard!! Put the Hemi in!".
With the new found idea, motivation and drive, I did some research and brainstorming to see what was required, what and how I would attack it and what kind of costs would be involved. It wasn't too bad. I had 80%+ of the items. The Hemi was complete and ready from sump to air cleaner, I had the tti headers, Dana 60, stiffening kit, XV 3-Link suspension etc so had all the expensive parts there, just needed to install them.
This build was based on how I would build my own Vanishing Point vehicle. My own interpretation of a true getaway, highway stomping, blacktop terrorising, machine! Stock looking exterior but hidden power, suspension and other goodies. I have always loved stock appearing Classic Mopars, you can't beat them! Big chrome wheels, two tone paint jobs, fibreglass interior, lots of chrome use, custom this and custom that, like ALL fads, these come and go but factory appearing will ALWAYS be timeless, no matter what year it is.
I removed most of the engine bay items, then it went to my mate Will's shop with the heavy machinery where he continued to strip and remove the engine. Next it was off to the body and chassis shop to install the 3-link suspension, front inner fender support bars, subframe connectors and weld up all the holes in the engine bay. After this, the 540 Hemi was trial fitted then off to the paint shop to spray the engine bay bright white again.
Sadly... the last stage took several years, 11-12 years to be precise! "Play money" was tight thanks to a shift from Wellington to the Bay of Plenty with a new property and starting a new business from scratch so this put the project on hold. After successfully building my business, determination and hard work, I placed myself in a comfortable position financially to complete this project.
I booked the Challenger into a well known Matamata "shop", which was the worst car shop and experience I have ever had. Extremely poor service, work, rude and just down right appalling all round. I couldn't pull the car out of that shit hole fast enough!! Thankfully, I found a real hot rod shop in Katikati called "Henry's Rodshop" which took me in with welcoming arms. Down to earth real hot rodders with the best shop facilities I have ever seen. They also have an extensive range of various hot rods, bikes, custom cars and builds in progress at any one time. Extremely high quality work too, what a refreshing change from the last shop!
Henry's got to work and together with my vision and ideas and their builders and workshop, the Hemi Challenger came to life, literally. Such an awesome but long journey! Despite how long it took, the ups and downs, I am proud of myself for the determination and drive to stick at it. Every time I start this beast, trust me... the 11-12 years was fully worth it haha!! If you are sitting on a project, do whatever you can to get it done, even if it's small steps each day or week, progress is progress and life doesn't get longer!
Anyhow, check the photos below from start to finish of the entire Hemi conversion!
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Looking good but that bare orange air cleaner lid needs the "HEMI" decal!
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The new custom "540 HEMI" decals.
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Much better! While it looks factory, the "540" (vs. the standard "426") is a subtle change.
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Air cleaner removed showing the Big-Stuff 3 electronic fuel injection (EFI) system.
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Automotive art.
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The F.A.S.T Twin 1,375cfm Throttle Bodies (2,750cfm in total).
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Right, now you've seen the Hemi, let's get into it! The original 440ci 4bbl Magnum prior to tear down. Beautiful and a bit of a shame but... the end result will be well worth it.
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Tear down and storing of parts begins...
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The A/C compressor and pipes. The only items going back on will be the battery tray, battery and washer bottle, the rest is obsolete.
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The interior A/C control panel and associated wiring removed for good.
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The bulky heater box and ducts from under the dash, gone for good.
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Christmas!! Some of the new Hemi related gear. Radiator, EFI wiring, exhaust, headers, etc.
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The 440 engine and bay looking emptier now.
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"The 440 vs. 540". The Hemi waits patiently in the background as it's new home is being readied.
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Right, I've done as much as I can from home with my tools. Time to go to the shop for the big jobs...
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Front end and fenders off. Note the "black gunk" along the top of the bolt line on the inner fenders? That's to help protect that area when the fender is bolted in. It also keeps it tight and adds a nice seal.
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Thank you 440 for your services. The last time it sits in it's familiar resting spot before being retired (but never forgotten!).
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Closer up of the firewall showing the massive hole for the A/C heater box components.
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These and any other holes which aren't required in the engine bay will be filled with new metal, welded and cleaned up then painted when we paint the entire bay again.
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The same hole from in the interior, inside looking out.
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The stripped down 440 engine out.
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The 440 back at home. This will be cleaned up and staged for presentation purposes for the corner of the workshop / garage later on.
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The empty bay.
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The engine bay holes that aren't required are all welded up, sanded back and a prep holding coat applied. Before paint, we have to trial fit the Hemi.
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Drivers side.
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Passengers side.
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Firewall filled in. Final touch ups will be completed pre-paint but first, let's get on to fitting the Hemi!
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About to trial fit the Hemi for the first time.
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F#%k that thing looks pretty at any angle.
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Are we there yet? Are we there yet? Are we there yet??
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Touch down. Houston... we're in.
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Time to check clearances and fitment.
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Drivers side looks good. The steering column will clear and our Hydroboost system will have plenty of space.
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OK... now that's a lot closer! It's OK but you can see why these were nicknamed "The Elephant Engines"!
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The Griffin aluminium cross-flow radiator 26" x 2.5" in size with trans cooler. Part # GRI-5-571GA-FAX
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Trial fitting the radiator, shroud and other odds and ends.
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Looking good...
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Before we could proceed with the engine, we wanted to get the subframe connectors, inner tube supports and 3-link suspension in. Welding under the floor area means heat, which means risk of fire, which means... Interior has to come out.
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The XV Motorsports subframe connectors we used.
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In and looking good! These are "laser cut" to the contours of the E-Body Challenger. Well, that's what they said but like most things, there was a little massaging. Not much though, they went in really well.
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With 660-700+hp and a shit load of torque, you can't expecting a 50 year old designed body to handle that without eventually getting stress cracks and body twist over time. To combat that, these are a must. It "links" everything together adding strength. A must if you are serious about your build and respect your car.
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Closer up. Note these are (obviously) welded in. You can buy "bolt on" connectors but welding really is the only way to go. A lot more effort and mucking around but the end result is a snug and tighter fit equaling better strength and looks.
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XV Motorsports Inner Tube frame connectors. These add much needed strength to the front of the body and engine bay area and compliment the subframe connectors nicely.
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Passenger side in.
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Drivers side in.
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The custom ordered 9-3/4" "Dr-Diff" Dana 60 35-Spline Power-Lock differential. I had mine made with 3.54:1 crown and pinion and 10.75" disc brakes to replace the factory drums. A very beautiful piece.
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/images/573353/Hemi_Conversion_36A.JPGOK, now the chassis and vehicle's stiffening procedure has been completed, time to trial fit and install the 3-link rear.
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/images/573353/Hemi_Conversion_35B.jpgThe XV Motorsports Level II 3-Link rear suspension kit. It consists of an adjustable panhard bar, aluminum coilover shocks, adjustable pinion angle, aluminum trailing arms, NASCAR style splined tubular sway bar with billet aluminum lower control arms. A very nice piece of kit. Expensive but worth it. Allows for much larger tyres without rubbing vs the old leaf spring set up, up to 345/50s and the benefits of easy adjustable ride height with 2-3 times more traction that the 50 year old leafs.
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Such a nice looking kit with top end gear. The components are literally straight from NASA haha.
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Looking good!
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This setup will really help put as much of the 540 Hemis HP/T to the ground. The MOST important factor. No point having big hp if you can't use it.
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A nice shot from below showing the new set up.
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I love the adjustable factor of these set up. Very cool.
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Done!
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Back on the ground.
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Now that the Hemi has been trial fitted, the body stiffening welded in and the 3-link suspension in place, time to paint the engine bay some fresh coats of bright white.
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Once the final fabrication work is completed and pre-paint done, time for the paint.
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Back to her show quality engine bay finish. The photos don't do this paint job justice but in the photos ahead when the engine is installed and to come, you will notice how crisp, clean and fresh it really is.
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Drivers side.
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Passengers side.
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The Hemi back in the freshly painted engine bay. Absolutely beautiful.
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Engine chains still in place while everything is triple checked.
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The TTI 2-1/8" Hemi Headers. Primary tube size = 2-1/8" OD which flows through to a 3-1/2" collector size with welded 3-bolt flange. The flanges are 3/8" and laser cut. These are the best money can buy. Bar none. A one piece mandrel bent design that's ceramic coated with thermal barrier insides. These particular headers are made specifically for Hemi engines with 600+hp. In short, f#%ken bad ass.
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I always prefer a little less bling for large items so instead of the "polished" look, I went for the silver matt finish. Same as I used to have on the 440ci. Part # TTIHemi-218C4
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Showing the header fitment on the passengers side.
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Drivers side.
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Chains removed and in place for good.
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A good shot showing the NOS E-Body Hemi K-frame we got from the U.S.A. Not cheap... yikes!!
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Not the greatest quality photo unfortunately but it was taken from the front before the radiator was installed.
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Air cleaner on as a bit of motivation.
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My old 2006 Dodge Ram SRT/10 8.3L V10 Viper aka "The Batram" looking on.
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The freshly painted gloss black radiator in place with fan shroud, hoses and water bottle. Very pretty.
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Correct Mopar red top battery and Hydroboost unit in place.
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A nice shot showing the new radiator. So black and tidy. Love it!
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The Mopar battery ordered from the U.S.A. Only problem was, I got this battery literally several years too early haha. So me and my Dad had to keep it on trickle charge and keep it alive for so long!! Worth it though... it just adds to the "correct appearance" that I am going for so well.
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The TTI 3" exhaust system with H-Pipe. The mufflers I chose are Dynomax Super-Turbo mufflers. I had the smaller size on the 440 and loved them. FYI: An X-Pipe is suppose to make a few hp more, but X-Pipes cross right where the Gear Vendors unit sits and touches, this is specially made for the GV unit. With the Hemi making ample hp, I don't mind "losing" 10-15hp for a more precise (and safer) tucked in fit.
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The Torqueflite-727 out. The stock mild rebuild we did with the 440 during resto just wouldn't handle the Hemi, well, it would, but it's not worth the risk. The transmission will be sent off to get beefed up and kick ass.
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Boxing it up for the road.
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A big player in any drivetrain, the torque converter. This is the custom built 10" TCS racing 2,400-2,600rpm stall converter. This was spec'd by the engine builder Tim Banning in conjunction with the trans builder (Chuck Mann) and Paul Parkins at TCS using the HP/T of my engine as well as matching that to the trans and overdrive. Custom specd is the only way to go for this build.
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A deep trans pan kit to keep that bad boy running and cool.
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The newly rebuilt transmission built by Chuck Mann in Rotorua. All the heavy duty bells and whistles like clutch packs, bands including a full manual valve body.
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Looks amazing. Fresh and beefy.
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The Gear Vendors OD unit bolted on to the tailshaft.
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Ready to be bolted up.
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The electronic brains behind the Gear Vendors "Autoshift Sequencer" unit. This is mounted under the dash.
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The SFI 8 bolt Hemi flex plate.
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The Hydroboost system going in. It's such a nice piece of kit. Small with vastly improved braking characteristics over stock power brakes.
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New meat. 325/50R15 BFGoodrich G-Force TA Drag Radials. DOT approved. They only come in black wall sides and I LOVE raised white letter tyres (RWL). So... I painted them on myself using a white tyre pen. Came up great and actually lasts. As you can see from before and after, a massive difference. Muscle cars HAVE to have white writing!! It's the law haha.
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Closer up...
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The rear vs. the front size comparison. For the front, I'm running my original spec tyres. 245/60R15 BFGoodrich Radial T/As.
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The rears.
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The new tyres on the new 3-link rear set up. I love the size. Obviously bigger than the 275s I used to have on... but not so big that they draw attention or scream "I'm a straight line drag car only". About as big as you can go before the "Stock" theme is lost while still offering fantastic traction capabilities and remaining relatively inconspicuous.
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Fat. Ass.
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The Batram looking on still...
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Showing the stance and fitment. The rear wheels are 15x10" Rallye wheels with a 5" BS. We had to trim the wheel lip moldings a tad to give it clearance. It was fine as is, but we wanted to be 100% safe. Looks tough as.
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The XV Motorsport Level I suspension kit. Obviously, we didn't buy/use the leaf springs and rear suspension components.
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The Aeromotive Phantom 340 Stealth EFI fuel system with in-tank fuel pump. Supports up to 850hp for NA EFI vehicles. My 540 is rated currently for 660hp so more than ample with room to increase if needed.
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More components and fittings like the inline fuel filter, separators, etc.
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All black AN fittings for the EFI / fuel lines.
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Mocking up and preparing the stock fuel tank for the EFI fuel pump.
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After the fuel pump is installed, powered coated black and air blown out.
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We had to make a notch to clear one of the 3-link rods. Annoying but no drama when we had to remove and do the fuel pump install anyway.
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Ready to have the AN fuel lines connected and installed.
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My Dad's handy work. Helping where he can. We decided to drill out the stock hood scoop insert blanks to allow air flow. From factory they are closed. Yes... that hood is purely for looks and intimidation. I'm not 100% sure it will do much, but we feel either more air in, or more air out, can't hurt.
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From the back...
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Once they're in place, you can't really notice any difference due to it being (obviously) very dark in the engine bay (behind them).
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Speaking of hoods... the new custom made "540 Hemi" emblems.
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My new custom made "Vanishing Point" inspired fender tag. I still keep the original safely in the glove-box.
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Screwed in place on that fresh bright white engine bay paint. Love it!
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Parts still to go in, interior, fenders but getting there...
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With a high performance engine, comes high performance gauges to keep an eye on things. I'm not a fan of screwing or bolting big flashy 5" gauges into the dash or putting them in the pillar posts. We came up with an idea to put them where the old A/C
controls used to be under the instrument cluster. A good friend of mine, Jim in the U.S.A, worked his magic and turned this... into this... -
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Awesome! He cut it out, blanked it off, sanded it back and primed it ready to have the holes drilled out for the gauges. Fantastic work.
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After drilling out the holes, mocking it up to make sure it fits...
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Painted and gauges in. The 3 gauges I chose to run after talking to the engine builder are: Oil pressure, Air/Fuel wideband and Water temp. The gauges I chose to run are of course, Autometer Sport-Comps.
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Screwed in place. Looks like it could have been a factory option, which is what I like. Not in your face, easy enough to read and keep an eye on but not in your face. Perfect.
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As there is no A/C (windows down only! haha), by law, you MUST run a front window de-mister for visibility reasons. My friend Jim who did the gauge panel, also makes the best de-mister kits. This is under dash. It's a lovely kit, functional and best of all, 20 x less weight than the original A/C setup.
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The MSD 6 Series (6420) ignition system volting that Hemi.
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One of my favourite mods! The Challenger now has a Hurst Pro-matic-2 ratchet shifter. Instead of people looking in seeing the ball (which immediately screams "non-Mopar") I opted for something else. This is an original 4-speed Hurst pistol grip shifter custom fabricated to fit the Hurst Pro-matic-2 set up. That's the easy part haha...
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I wanted to run a cool button on top of the shifter to activate the Gear Vendors "gear splitting". Shift pistol grip, hit button, shift pistol grip, hit button, etc. It's amazing. The only way to do this is a) do a mad bill up the front handle tape job (hell no) or b) do it properly. First, I etched out tabs inside the handle to get the wire for the button through without pinching it when closed.
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I had to send this handle out around 2-3 times to get it spot on. It was no easy task getting it perfect. As you can see, the button sits perfectly in place.
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With the pistol grip handle mounted to the shifter mechanism, the "wooden" handles etched out to pass the wire through and the button sitting up top, the only thing left to do is run the wire down from the bottom of the handle to the base of the shifter mech. To do this, we laser cut the front out of the handle for the wire to sit "in to". If you look closely you can see it. With the wire "glued tight in place" it actually makes it "flush" again and almost unnoticeable, especially in the car (as it faces the dash). A very very clean set up. So it should be for how long it took!! Haha...
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BOOM! In the car and looking the absolute f#%king business. I had this same shifter 9but ball knob) in my SRT/10 with a racing 4L80E trans and it was incredible. Chirped the tyres in every gear. Instant neck breaking shifts with engine breaking and burbling back firing instant down shifts. So fun!
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From the passengers side...
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The XV Motorsports tilt steering column in satin black. I already had the tuff wheel (my favourite) but the standard steering column is a PITA! The seating positions are limited and you have to do the dreaded "E-Body shuffle" with the knees under the steering wheel when you get in. Any E-Body owner over 5ft-7" will tell you the same. Not any more. This steering column gives me an extra 2" of movement up. It doesn't sound like much but ask your partner if she'd like 2 inches more... hahaha!
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Tilt column, Hurst pistol grip Promatic-2 shifter and gauges ready to roll.
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Getting there!
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MopArt. With no funds due to building my business, I had nothing to do but admire and take photos of this beauty. 10+ years.
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/images/573353/Challenger1.jpgCovered, warm and dry in my parents garage in Wellington.
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/images/573353/Challenger2.jpgRevealing the beast underneath...
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/images/573353/Final_Parts_Dodge_Challenger.JPGEmptying my parents garage of the final parts and getting it all ready for the truck the following morning.
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/images/573353/Ready_for_Collection_1.JPGOut of the garage! The first time she's seen natural day light in many many years. This alone was rewarding enough progress wise!! I sacrificed a lot in those 10 years she sat in that garage to build myself a successful business knowing this day would come...
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/images/573353/Ready_for_Collection_2.JPGFrom above...
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/images/573353/Lucy_on_Transporter_Dodge.JPGGetting her safely strapped in and loaded. Tyrone at "Low Tow" was bloody awesome. Fantastic service!
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/images/573353/Truck_Dodge_Challenger_RT.JPGAll done. An 8+ hour drive up North awaits... let's roll!!
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/images/573353/0_Dodge_Challenger_RT_Nissan_NP300_Navara_Frontier.JPGFollowing in the Navara full of parts.
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/images/573353/Dodge_RT_Classic.JPGA pit-stop close to Mt Ruapehu.
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/images/573353/Lucy_Waiting.JPGAt an absolute shit hole of a shop in Matamata for a new wiring loom. Sadly, I only found out how poor the service was once the car had already arrived so pulled it out at the earliest opportunity. I had more work planned but FUCK THAT! In my experience, the worst vehicle shop I have ever been too. Bar none. One car in, one car out and to hell with customer service. All about $$$$$. Oh well, what comes around goes around. If you want good, well actually, even just service, take it to a real hot rod shop far away from Matamata.
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/images/573353/Lucy_Workshop.JPGThe engine bay already looking so close to completion but still a lot of finicky bits to do: fuel lines and fuel, Hydroboost brake lines, all new wiring including the Hemi and the FAST wiring, exhaust, etc.
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/images/573353/Dakota_Digital_Dash_Mopar_Gauages.JPGWith Lucy in at the workshop, it was time to order any of the final remaining parts. I did originally look at buying some more 2-1/16th Autometer gauges and putting them under the dash above the console but after weighing it all up and with the original (albeit new) 440 wiring etc, not being compatible with the 540 Hemi, I decided to pull the trigger on a new RTX Dakota Digital gauges cluster, custom made in KPH. With a big cube electronic fuel injected Hemi up front, I wanted to have all my gauges modern and up to the task of informing me 100% accurately how it's doing. Such a beautiful kit. 10-12+ week wait but worth it!
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/images/573353/Bezel_Mopar_Ebody.JPGThe new reproduction 1972-74 Rallye Cluster Bezel. These are the best repros, from Instrument Specialists in the U.S.A. They fit great and are shipped pre-bent (like originals). I could have used my original 1970 version but it has the adjustment knobs sticking through and using it would have meant I had 2 holes with nothing through them as the Dakota Digital dash has the adjustment knobs IN the gauges themselves. Got to keep it clean and tidy!
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/images/573353/Viper_Alarm.JPGNew 5 Star safety alarm with "extra custom goodies" from steel penetrating GPS to God himself looking over it. Bullet proof all black wires, kill switch, you name it.
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/images/573353/JVC_Headunit.jpgTime to update the headunit! I went with a JVC KD-X560BT system. I love the fact it is single din and has a 3" reverse camera. Great for congested car shows / parking and just in general, always nice to have an extra set of eyes. Camera sits nicely on rear license plate. No extra holes needed and a great view point.
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/images/573353/ITMB5379.JPGFuel sending unit's pickup and return lines are not required with the new in-tank Aeromotive fuel pump having it's own. I could have used end caps with clamps, 1 hillbilly even suggested using a hose with a bolt in the end. Not my style. Has to be done right and safe! I had the ends welded closed for a tidy, safe finish. No fuel leaks for me! The terminal is obviously for the fuel sending unit / fuel gauge.
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/images/573353/Aeromotive_Fuel_Fittings_and_Fragola_PTFE_Hose.jpgAll new black -8AN PTFE Aeromotive fuel line fittings, fuel filter, Y-Pipe, etc and 26 feet worth of black Fragola PTFE hose. I already purchased -6AN fittings and had ProFlex rubber hose from years ago. Good stuff and I could have saved myself over $2K+ but longevity and pressure ratings are no match for the newer PTFE hose and fittings. I wanted this to last and Teflon lined hose is basically indestructible and will last a lifetime vs. rubber hoses getting soft, rotting and brittle after 5-7 years. Do it once, do it right. Can't wait to install these!!
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/images/573353/Tow_Truck_Mopar.jpgOff to a real shop. One of the best days in the entire Hemi conversion was leaving Matamata...
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/images/573353/Hemi_Challenger_RT_Classic_Storage.JPGIn storage for 1 week waiting her turn at the new shop.
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/images/573353/Hot_Rod_Shop_NZ_Dodge_Challenger_Mopar.JPGWow! What a shop and the workers actually talk to you and go out of their way to make you welcome. How it should be. So stoked! Real Hot rodders!
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/images/573353/Mopar_Car_Hoist_Muscle_Hemi_Classic_1970.JPGWithin hours of being in the shop, work began.
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/images/573353/1970_Challenger_RT_Vanishing_Point_Machine.JPGCloser inspection. New fuel lines about to go in, header clearance adjustments, new oil pickup line routing, starter motor wiring all done within a few days. Going through with a fine tooth comb during a conversion like this is inevitable but thankfully, this shop don't piss and moan about it, they just get it done, and fast.
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/images/573353/Mopar_Battery_Red_Cap.JPGThere are a LOT of hidden and tasteful upgrades in my Challenger, tricks per se that keep it simple, modern but still stock appearing. This is a tiny mod but an effective one. I purchased an original Mopar AGM red cap battery years and years ago, a decade?? I had it on trickle charger but sadly as the project was drawn out, the battery ultimately and sadly, slowly died. $1,250+ (landed) down the drain. Then I saw this cool battery top that gives it a factory appearance but utilizing any local battery which fit the top template. 1/4 the price with a 3 year warranty. No more having to pay $600+ just for heavy shipping.
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/images/573353/Mopar_battery_red_top_lid.JPGEverything on and original battery decals removed. Looks good! Modern and most wont know the difference especially from far and best of all, it helps keep that 540ci engine bay appear as stock as possible (given what it is).
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/images/573353/Mopar_Battery_Rec_Caps.JPGCloser up...
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/images/573353/Titan_Performance_Mopar_Alternator.JPGUpgraded alternator. I decided to get a locally made (New Zealand) alternator as I heard a bit about the seller (Wayne Grimmer) and his high quality NZ Made stuff. Top quality piece, well made and 1/2 the price of the competition! This is a 220amp monster to help run the EFI, stereo, electric AC setup (to come) etc. Better to have too much, than not enough. This replaced the tiny 60amp unit that came with the engine. Runs a serpentine 6 groove (black) pulley to match the rest of the Hemi's belt system.
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/images/573353/Alternator_Mopar_220amp_1_.JPGAlternator in place... fit's like a glove. Thanks Wayne!
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/images/573353/Hemi_Challenger_1970_White.JPGFinishing or should I say, fixing the wiring the last shop put together. It was either them, or a 8 year old. She's in good hands now. Wiring will be sorted, cleaned up, made safe and professional.
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/images/573353/Lucy_Wiring.jpgIt's not always fun and games but it's got to be done! Sorting out the new loom with all kinds of electronics to incorporate, eg; EFI/Hemi loom, Dakota Digital Rallye Gauge cluster, Gear Vendors Autoshift Sequencer module, stereo, all the cars original items like lights, power windows and new alarm + GPS trackers. A huge job.
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/images/573353/Lucy_-_Fire_Up_Stuff_03.JPGSome last minute adjustments before the first attempt at firing up the Hemi for the first time!
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/images/573353/Lucy_-_Fire_Up_Stuff_04.JPGStill a bit to do but enough of the wiring was in place to make sure she fires and we don't have trace any "wiring faults" once the loom is in place.
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/images/573353/Lucy_-_Fire_Up_Stuff_06.JPGFuel pressure, oil pressure, spark, all good to go. Video of first fire up in "Gallery" section.
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/images/573353/Lucy_-_Fire_Up_Stuff.JPGNeeds a good clean and a few very minor (OCD) tweaks but overall.... damn... I'm in love hahaha.
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/images/573353/Lucy_Underside_01.jpgThe underside, new tti 3" exhaust in place.
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/images/573353/Lucy_Underside_02.JPGTti headers, sump and steering gear all looking mint.
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/images/573353/challenger_rt_rear_end.jpgWhat a rear end and fats!
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/images/573353/70_Challenger_white_mopar.jpgOut for one of her first test runs.
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/images/573353/hot_rod_dodge_challenger.jpgA little brake adjustment. The hydraboost system required a little tweak in line pressure. They were self applying around 3-5%. Fantastic brakes, extremely powerful but touchy at first until you get use to them.
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/images/573353/70_dodge_challenger_custom_seats.jpgnew custom bolstered seats trial fitting. Too close to the steering wheel and knees. We custom fabricated the seat tracks and relocate the seats back around 3".
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/images/573353/IMG_9261.jpgCloser up...
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/images/573353/tuff_steering_wheel_mopar_ebody.jpgThe tuff wheel used during the build will soon be replaced with a smaller diameter Tuff wheel along with a correct appeaing black crush can adapater from Ididit.
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/images/573353/256-BS_600x.jpgNew Tuff wheel ordered from PG Classics. There are a few out there but I liked this one. I wanted the smalest diamater I could find to make the dirving position less cramped. This wheel is 14" vs. most which are 15". It is also a littler thicker and has a nice leather grip.
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/images/573353/ididit_tuff_wheel_adapter_ebody.JPGThe Ididit Tuff steering wheel adapater to match the Ididit tilt steering column.
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/images/573353/Nitto_nt555Rii.jpgThe new meats (spares for now). Will go on after test and tune and shakedown runs in the Challenger. Nitto NT555RIIs in 325/50R15. They have better traction rating and tread wear than the BFGoodrich Drag radials I currently have on (which are discontinued so I had no choice to loo else where). Also a slightly beter grooves to help with hydroplaning. Love them! Didn't like the reviews and complaints about tread life on the Mickey Thompsons. Nittos for the win.
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/images/573353/TTI_Exhaust_Tips_1970_Challenger_Mopar_1_.JPGTTI Exhaust tips. Whoa! These are SUPER nice. Cost me $660 USD landed in NZ but WELL worth it. When I was researching tips, there were 2 or 3 pics of these online, blurry as hell too. To help others convince themselves that the cost is worth it (it is), I've added 4 photos to show the detail and quality. On the fence? Buy these fuckers!
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/images/573353/TTI_Exhaust_Tips_1970_Challenger_Mopar_2_.JPGCloser up...
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/images/573353/TTI_Exhaust_Tips_1970_Challenger_Mopar_3_.JPGStraight through / functional.
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/images/573353/TTI_Exhaust_Tips_1970_Challenger_Mopar_4_.JPGIt's in the details! Very nice set that will finish of the rear end dress up nicely especially combined with the chrome bumper and the trunk and quarter panel lip moldings. Nice work TTI!
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/images/573353/1970_Hemi_Challenger_RT_Vanishing_Point_3_.JPGAt the body shop having a custom fabricated steel scatter shield installed. Not much room under the car in the trans tunnel, so we opted to weld a custom shaped 4mm steel plate to the trans tunnel inside the cabin. Once installed, the car will have the floor cabin painted again.
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/images/573353/1970_Hemi_Challenger_RT_Vanishing_Point_4_.JPGNew fresh interior floor pan. You can barely notice the new ankle saving scatter shield...
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/images/573353/1970_Hemi_Challenger_RT_Vanishing_Point_5_.JPGCloser up of the scatter shield. Fresh, clean, safe... interior can finally go in for the final time.
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/images/573353/1970_Hemi_Challenger_RT_Vanishing_Point_1_.JPGLooking sharp... can't wait to see the grille back in.
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/images/573353/1970_Hemi_Challenger_RT_Vanishing_Point_2_.JPGInstalling the oil and trans cooler. Test runs show she runs nice and cool. Good sign.
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/images/573353/1970_Hemi_Challenger_RT_Vanishing_Point_7_.JPGGrille finally installed. 11-12 years since I've seen this view. It was also installed in preparation of getting her certification! An exciting part of the journey. All the car guys reading this, we can all agree and respect what this means in the hobby.
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/images/573353/1970_Hemi_Challenger_RT_Vanishing_Point_14_.JPGCloser up... very dirty (obviously) but still looks mint!
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/images/573353/1970_Hemi_Challenger_RT_Vanishing_Point_13_.JPGThe engine bay, still 10% or so adjustments and additions like the battery top cover, a little black out work and definitely a deep clean!
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/images/573353/1970_Hemi_Challenger_RT_Vanishing_Point_9_1.JPGCustom made "540 Hemi" warning emblems in place. Love it.
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/images/573353/1970_Hemi_Challenger_RT_Vanishing_Point_9_.JPGCloser up...
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/images/573353/1970_Hemi_Challenger_RT_Vanishing_Point_8_.JPGRear... pretty much done.
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/images/573353/1970_Hemi_Challenger_RT_Vanishing_Point_6_.JPGTrial fitting the console with the Hurst Promatic II ratchet shifter. Using an original 4-Speed boot to cover and hide the shifter's mechanics. That pistol grip look, with that built auto performance. Mean.
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/images/573353/1970_Hemi_Challenger_RT_Vanishing_Point_11_.JPGA little too much boot, 1 "layer" of boot will be trimmed, show more handle but not bad for the first few attempts.
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/images/573353/1970_Hemi_Challenger_RT_Vanishing_Point_10_.JPGFor me, having the plastic Hurst silver "PRND321" cover in the console was NEVER on the table. A lot of extra work (like lots in this project) all pays off. The gear display is now via the Dakota Digital gauges. Very cool gadget.
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/images/573353/1970_Hemi_Challenger_RT_Vanishing_Point_12_.JPGRe-positioned custom bolstered seats. Extremely comfortable position and fit. If you own an E-Body, do yourself a HUGE favour and either buy, or, like my shop, fabricate seat brackets. I had them move the seat back 2". Holy shit. What a difference. I also requested a little more lean / rake than the passenger. The new driving positions available, have made it a much more enjoyable experience.
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/images/573353/Dodge_Mopar_Challenger_Borgeson_Power_Steering_Pump.jpgNew Borgeson quick ratio (14:1) power steering upgrade with box, joint and lines to suit the Ididit tilt steering column (what a combo!). My Challenger was equipped with PS from the factory but even rebuilt, it's sloppy, wanders and definitely in need of a upgrade. With nearly 700hp on tap, you want to be in control. This box will firm the steering right up, quicker turning response and just really bring the car into the modern world. Will it handle like a Golf R? Shit no. Does it drastically improve handling? FUCK YES!! Night and day.
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/images/573353/Borgeson_Power_Steering_Pump_.jpgCloser up. It's around 14lbs lighter, much smaller (30-40%) and just a lovely piece. On the fence? Do it. Money well spent. Steering is the direct link between you and your machine, make sure it's top notch.
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/images/573353/BFGoodrich_Nitto_NT555R2.jpgWith BFGoodrich no longer making 325/50R15s, I ordered some Nitto NT555RIIs which thankfully had better tread and traction ratings but sadly, dont come with RWL (Raised White Letters) just blackwall. I ordered a Tyre Letter kit (permanent) with BFGoodrich lettering to suit my front BFGs and the "tough oldschool" image I wanted. Takes a little prep and time to do right but shit its good! Guaranteed to live the life of the tyre.
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/images/573353/BFGoodrich_Nitto_NT555R2_Tyres_325-50_Dodge_Challenger_Drag_Radials.jpgAll done.
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/images/573353/BFGoodrich_Nitto_NT555RII_Muscle_Car_Tires_Tyres.jpgCloser up... pretty bloody good man! Raised and all.
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/images/573353/BFGoodrich_Nitto_NT555RII_325-50R15.jpgLeft = Nitto 325/50 rear with letters added next to the front (factory BFG) tyre. You would never know.
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/images/573353/Classic_Car_Mopar_Project_start_to_finish.jpgDone! Certified, brand new WOF and registered. What a moment. From it's last registration before we started the conversion (which actually started in 2010), until the completed road legal finish. So stoked!
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/images/573353/Henry_s_Rodhshop_Mopar.jpgCleaned and ready for collection. What an occasion! 12 years lead to this moment. She's a beast. Intimidating power, raw, fun, just a beautiful Mopar. I had all kinds of emotions, hadn't driven her for 12 years and that was with a stock 440, some 300hp difference to the new 540ci Hemi.
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/images/573353/Dodge_Challenger_Henry_s_Rodshop.jpgThe arse end. Big meats. Fucken awesome!
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/images/573353/Henry_s_Rodshop_Custom_Cups.jpgSome cool custom mugs I got from Henry's Rodhsop with my car on it. Nice touch! Thanks to the team once again. Best Hotrod shop around.
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/images/573353/Dodge_Challenger_Project.jpgOut on her first drive. She's definitely got bite! Instant torque. Love it! Lots of attention... have to get used to that again. More head turns than a tennis match. Not sure I enjoy the part but it comes with owning a car like this I guess. I'd look too haha!
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/images/573353/1970_Dodge_Challenger_RT_Rear_End_Fat_Tyres_Tires.jpgThe arse end.
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/images/573353/Dodge_Challenger_Hemi_RT.jpgWarning Labels.
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/images/573353/1970_Dodge_Challenger_RT_Custom_Seats_Hemi_Car_Bucket_Seats.jpgThe interior; Custom factory seats which received bolstering to the sides (seat and back squabs) to give them more bucket feel and lateral support. SO MUCH BETTER!! Custom brackets taking the seats back around 2-3" with a slight rake added as well. That mixed with the Ididit tilt column have turned this into one of the most comfortable E-Bodies on the planet. Night and day from the cramped up knees, low arm, squashed factory feel. One of the best few mods out of the thousand this car has. Driving position is of the utmost importance.
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/images/573353/1970_Dodge_Challenger_RT_E_Body_Custom_Interior_Carlwalski.jpgAnother angle showing the custom Hurst Promatic-2 with 4-Speed pistol grip and boot. Up for up, down for down. Easy, fast, great looks, great performance. Win win, win win.
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/images/573353/1970_Dodge_Challenger_seats_Mopar_E-Body_Custom_Seats.jpgAll business.
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/images/573353/1970_Dodge_Challenger_RT_Custom_Bucket_Seats_Carlwalski.JPGClose up of the side bolstering on the seat backs. These are factory seats which had foam cut, shaped and added to the OEM squabs, then factory correct vinyl insert panels added for the extra additions. Modern feel, factory look. Very pleased with how these came out!
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/images/573353/Custom_Dakota_Digital_E-Body_Challenger_Cuda_Gauges_1970_RT_Mopar_Carlwalski.jpgCustom cockpit setup: Dakota Digital (kph) gauge cluster, custom AC LH lower dash panel gauges (x 3), headunit with reverse camera, red light on the right corner is for Gear Vendors OD Off, a Green light below turns on when OD is on. Gear Vendors is controled via button on pistol grip shifter. Great for gear splitting. Next to the GV light is the digital gear display for the beefed up forward manual valve body ratchet shifter. Below the GV light and gear display occupying the old seatbelt light hole is the exhaust cutouts switch. Up for loud, down for quiet. With them open, only way to describe the 540 Hemi is absolute all out war!!! A lot of custom touches came together to give me my ultimate cockpit whilst still keeping it fairly stock appearing. Tasteful is always my goal. Loving it! Some like bling, some look the modern look but for me, factory appearing will always be in!
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/images/573353/1970_Dodge_Challenger_RT_Hemi_Underside.jpgHave to look just as good underneath!
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/images/573353/1970_Dodge_Challenger_RT_Hemi_Underside_Mopar_Floorpan_E_Body.JPGBusiness end.
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/images/573353/540ci_Hemi_Challenger_RT_2.JPGAnd last, but certainly not least... the business end.
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/images/573353/540ci_Hemi_Challenger_RT_3.JPGAbsolute art!
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/images/573353/340928850_598673958964828_6750863339852937184_n.jpegStrange components for the new 3.5, 1350 chrome moly Strange driveshaft setup. While the old driveshaft was OK, it was 3" and no signs of any major weak spots. It was knowing what the 700ft-lb Hemi is capable of that made me upgrade to this beefy setup. My combo HOOKS so there's a lot of bite and stress on these components. I really enjoy peace of mind.
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/images/573353/340630694_180991758106872_3216880267621080330_n.jpegStrange 3.5, 1350 chrome moly driveshaft.
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/images/573353/IMG_3991.jpgFresh out of the Hemi build and a few kms under the belt, teething issues are to be expected. I started to hear a knocking sound... no, not rod knock or anything related to the engine. Turned out it was the flexplate slightly out of whack (not loose). The Hemi beat it up and thankfully hadn't spit it out yet! I've had everything done, upgraded 9-3/4" Dana, beefy 3.5" 1350 chrome moly driveshaft, strengthening, chassis stiffening, etc so this was really the last "weak link" of the driveline and these flexplates take a battering transferring all the torque. Enter the new 29.2 SFI rated Meziere Pro Mod fully Billet Hemi Flexplate. Secured tightly in place of course by ARP hardware.
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/images/573353/IMG_3998.jpgThe Meziere pro mod billet Hemi flexplate.
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/images/573353/IMG_3996.jpgSFI 29.2 is extremely stout stuff. Only the best!